Shiralle Cruise 2011 #7

Thursday 19th May

The trip from Trefor to Llangollen is about three miles or so and includes a couple of winding stretches that are only wide enough for one boat to pass through. This is fun for Sheila, because it means she can take her mobile on a nice walk and, when she reaches the part where it widens out again, she can warn me of any boats already making their way through. If it is clear, she then advises me to carry on and stops other boats approaching whilst I am in the narrow bit. Goodness knows what lone boaters are supposed to do.

Saturday 21st May and we must leave Llangollen this morning, our 48 hours are up. The plan is, and this assumes the weather is kind to us, to make our way back to Whitehouse Tunnel, which is where we were moored prior to crossing the big aqueduct. Total journey is about six miles, which should only take about three hours.

Last time we were here at Llangollen, it took us an hour just to turn the boat around. From our moorings at the Wharf it is necessary to go down to the basin, which entails a stretch of canal that is only wide enough for one boat. The delay arises when other boaters, who also want to get away reasonably early, come up from the basin first. This morning, with it being a Saturday, Wifey wants to go into the town for a paper and some milk, so we won’t be leaving early.

Anyway, I digress, this part is supposed to be about yesterday and our afternoon walk down to Horseshoe Falls. After our short trip into town for stuff we had forgotten on Thursday, we returned for a cuppa and a read of the paper and, since I was unable to do so on our last visit a couple of years ago, we set off for the falls which are, according to our Nicholson Guide, about 1½ miles away. I realised that this was a somewhat ambitious idea on my part, but was not going to be deterred.

At a steady plod, I thought, this should not take more than an hour. After all, even though I am still a little slow, the average walking pace is somewhere near 4 mph, isn’t it??

The scenery along the way, especially the view down into the town and across the valley is quite amazing and I must confess to giving the Olympus a bit of a bashing, 76 photos in all. Mostly amateur I’m sad to say, but amongst them some really pretty ones, even if I do say so myself.

After more than an hour of this steady plod and with no sign of the falls, I was beginning to wonder if they existed and, more importantly, Rusty appeared to be lagging behind a bit. Sadly, like all bad dog owners and lovers, we had neglected to take water with us. However we did manage to find a shallow part of the canal along the way and encouraged her to sip a drop or two.

Eventually, after 1½ hours, the falls came in sight and a very welcome sight it was. By this time my calf muscles were screaming and Rusty was looking very weary. But, she’s a game dog and, just as soon as Sheila directed her at the water, she was in and frolicking around like a pup.

If the distance is only 1½ miles then we only achieved 1 mph, which is awfully slow, even by my standards and my legs were complaining bitterly. But, enough of this whingeing, we hung around for a while, taking in the scenery and snapping a few more photos and, for my part, in no hurry to plod back again.

The return trip took us another hour and a half, with still more photos snapped and, by the time we reached the wharf, I was ready for an ice cream and so was Rusty. What a dog, after all that walking which, for a 13 year old is no mean feat, and especially after the swim and plenty of water, she led from the front all the way back. She never ceases to amaze us with her energy, one minute I’m thinking I’ll have to carry her back and the next minute she’s putting us both to shame. Whatever she’s got I wish it could be bottled!!

Just one more whinge, if you please, I really did suffer after that walk. Within half an hour of sitting down my legs had become almost useless and, as for sleeping last night, I didn’t get much of that either. Still, the weather out there is pretty calm at present and, if we can get away at a reasonable time, we’ll be at the tunnel before lunchtime.

One thing we have noticed along this stretch from the tunnel to Llangollen, we are not able to pick up all the Freeview channels. This is no great loss really because, as you probably all know, there really isn’t much to look forward to these days. Last night we only bothered with three programmes, the News at Six, A Question of Sport and Have I Got News for You. I’m beginning to wonder if it was wise to replace our old TV.

It is 14 miles to Whittington and, if we can make Whitehouse Tunnel today then we should be in line for a Sunday Roast at The Narrow Boat Inn and, at just £5.50 a pop, that’s got to be worth the effort. Of course, the weather might decide to blast us with wet and wind, but I’m hopeful.

Monday 23rd May.

We actually got away from Llangollen quite early on Saturday, about 07.15. Sheila took an early walk into town while I turned the boat around. From our moorings on the wharf it is a short run, through a single boats width, down to the basin. So, Sheila went ahead to make sure it was clear and, while I was passing through and turning around, she went off for paper and milk. When she returned she did the same again, only in reverse then twice more for the other two narrow stretches. We arrived at Whitehouse Tunnel at 10.15.

We had only thought to stay for one night then move on to Chirk or beyond, but the wind was so strong we decided to stay another night. I’m not sure this was such a good idea, because holiday boaters in the main are a pretty useless lot. It’s not really their fault, because they are not used to handling these boats when it is windy and, as far as I’m concerned, on days of high winds the boat companies should not be hiring out.

We were struck at least four times by passing boats, all of them from hire companies and, on one occasion quite forcefully at the bow. Had I not been keeping a lookout our TV would have ended up on the floor. Of course the people on the boat think it is highly amusing and get a pretty ugly response from yours truly. We also lost a side fender during these knockabouts, so I’m even more unhappy. Well, they do say that boating is a contact sport!

The weather forecast for today is more wind and rain, but we have started with a calm morning. If the wind holds off and we can get across Chirk aqueduct, I’ll be a very happy bunny. Unfortunately I am in the grip of man flu once again, so it won’t be a very pleasant trip. But, as usual, being a rough and tough boater, I’ll soldier on without complaint!!

Next stop, hopefully, The Poacher’s Pocket pub, I hope, although it’s doubtful I’ll be partaking of their booze today, even if we do get that far.
Tuesday 24th May

Although there appears to be a pretty stiff breeze, the day has started with a clear sky. Now that we’re back in England, I’m hopeful it will stay that way. Not to demean ales in any way but, those of you who have stayed with Aunty Bob and Uncle Ron will be well aware of the change in weather during a single day. Aunty would often comment that, ‘if the hilltops are obscured by mist in the morning, the afternoon will be great’. Of course, the opposite also applied. Now that we are in much flatter country perhaps we can enjoy some stable weather.

We stayed overnight just outside a pub called “The Poacher’s Pocket” but, due to this pesky ‘man flu’, I was too under-the-weather to even contemplate a drink. Besides which I prefer to do my drinking early in the day; say between midday and 2 pm; but we arrived rather late due to bad weather.

We hemmed and hawed about leaving our moorings the other side of Whitehouse Tunnel but, eventually, and despite the wind and also not wanting to be bashed about any more, we decided to go for it. Well, we got as far as the moorings near Chirk Tunnel, by which time we were thoroughly fed up with being rained on, that we stopped for, we thought, the rest of the day.

In the event it did brighten up and so we made our way down to the tunnel. Unfortunately, since the Llangollen Canal is so popular and appears to carry more holiday boats than privately owned ones, we were obliged to wait for, by my count, nine boats to come through from the other end. Since proper mooring spaces are very limited here, all we could do was hold the boat with ropes and wait for them to pass.

So, like I said, we arrived here rather later than normal and, what with this head cold, decided not to bother with the pub.

We had planned on paying a visit to the Canal Boat (or should that be Narrowboat) at Whittington on our return, but since that’s where we should be today, and since I’ve had a lousy night, I’m none too sure we’ll bother with it. Although, since Sheila was rather keen on the idea when we last moored there, we might still do so. I’m such a nice man really!!

Wednesday 25th May.

As promised by those nice weather people we have a sunny start to our day.

We are probably off the Whittington, today which is where the Narrowboat pub is situated and where, if this blasted cold has eased off by then, we may just enjoy a meal for a change.

Our next stop after Whittington will be the Montgomery Canal. In order to enter this one and because they are rather fussy about upsetting the ecology of the place, you first have to telephone and book passage and, on top of that, only a set number of boats are allowed on the canal. The current navigable length is only about seven miles, although the rest is being worked on. It will be interesting to see just how much more restoration work has been carried out since our last visit.

Friday 27th May

We didn’t quite make it to Whittington on Wednesday, stopping short between bridges 6 and 7 and, with nothing except open countryside to distract, we simply chilled out for the day.

Yesterday it looked as though we would be staying put for another day but, with a break in the cloud and a little less wind, we decided to make a move to the Montgomery. Passage onto the canal must be booked before 10 am, which we only just managed, after which we weighed anchor and set off.

With the Monty being only a mile or so away we knew it would only take about 45 minutes to reach and that was very much the case. However, we hadn’t reckoned on the weather closing in and soaking us before we arrived. Fortunately we still have the giant umbrella our son David gave us and, for the most part kept much of the rain off.

Bearing in mind the distance and the fact that travel onto and back from the Monty, is only allowed between 12 noon and 2 pm, we therefore had over an hour to kill before going down the locks; of which there are four, a staircase pair and a two singles. Unbeknown to us however, there were 8 boats booked to go down and another 11 coming up, which meant a considerable delay.

With staircase locks; which consist of compartments that merge directly together through dividing gates, it is necessary for one boat to pass through both parts in one direction after which the next boat comes through from the other direction. The lock-keeper really does have his work cut out at these, especially when he has to control the movements of 19 boats at one go. Once committed to the task, whatever the weather, it is not possible to stop.

Eventually, after much faffing about – and holiday boaters are not renowned for assisting other boaters, which would speed up the process considerably – we arrived at the Weston Branch of the Monty at 2 pm, with five boats still waiting to come up to the Llangollen.
The Weston Branch is a mooring area with BW facilities, such as pump-out, Elsan disposal, toilets and water points, and we have stayed overnight last time we were here. If it rains anything like it did yesterday, we’ll probably stay another night. Our intention is to get down the full seven mile navigable length to where there is a turning point and a shop.

There is also the pub I mentioned, The Navigation Inn but, judging by the prices of meals in the leaflet the lock-keeper gave us, the owners are not keen on boaters these days. Two courses for £20.05 is, I think, rather steep and, when you consider that starters kick off at £4.50 and rise to £7.50, I don’t believe we’ll bother this time. This pub even has a separate Bargee’s Menu – and we’re not bargees, we’re boaters – which is the section I took the starter prices from, and the cheapest meal in that section of the menu is £7.95, for baked ham and sautéed potatoes. The Bargees menu is only available Tuesday – Saturday evenings and Wednesday – Saturday lunch. Is that discrimination or what?? Nah! They can stick it this time around.

Alternativeley, about half way down the canal is another pub, The Queen’s Head which, if that lock-keeper is right, offers very good meals at fair prices, so we may call there on the way back.

Saturday 28th May, and I’ll give my report about the Monty in my next posting. Right now I have some other stuff to follow up and, since this is now nine pages long, here’s hoping I can get online.

Cheers for now

Dave, Sheila and pooch.